Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to learn these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
